Our land, Bharat, is home to thousands of centuries-old, or for that matter millennium-old, temples. I have personally visited a handful of them. I have seen Grand, Small, Intricate, Simple, tall, Short, and all other sorts of temples. But I never saw a temple in two stories until I visited the great Chebrolu Bheemeshwara Swamy Temple. Its construction predates the famed Pancharamas of Andhra Pradesh and acted as a design inspiration to them. Come, let's visit the Chalukyan Era Bheemeswara Swami Temple.


Chalukyan Era - Chebrolu Bheemeswara Swamy Temple.

The History:

       One of the main reasons I visit temples is to explore their history. It fascinates me to think about how our ancestors built such majestic structures with beautiful architecture. Learning about who built a temple and when it was constructed always intrigues me. This place perfectly fulfills everything I look for in a temple — spirituality, history, and architecture.

        As you enter the temple, you’ll notice an ancient stone inscription to the left, partially hidden under a small shrub. Dating back to 207 CE, it’s one of the earliest examples of Sanskrit used in an inscription in Southern India. Issued by a Satavahana King named Vijaya, it reads:

"A prayer hall is built within the premises of the Sapta Matrika temple by Kartika after the Festival of Rama for King Vijaya."

This remarkable piece of history holds great significance but, unfortunately, remains neglected.


1700 years old inscription


The earliest use of Sanscrit in southern India

        There was once a Sapta Matrika temple, along with a Buddhist shrine, built by the Satavahana Dynasty. For unknown reasons, it was forgotten over time, left in ruins, and eventually buried. Several hundred years later, the present Bheemeswara Temple was constructed on the same site.

In recent years, excavations at the location uncovered several white stone slabs from the old temple, the ancient inscription we just saw, and a hoard of lead coins. These coins bore Satavahana symbols and were crafted from lead of such high purity that even the lead available in modern markets is less pure.


Ruins of ancient Sapta Matrika Temple.
        
       A few steps further take you to the two-storied temple that has stood firmly for hundreds of years. Over time, a large amount of soil accumulated around the temple, leaving the lower floor buried beneath the earth. Recent excavations have uncovered the complete structure, and visitors now have to descend the steps to reach the temple.

Satyasraya of the Western Chalukyas sent his general Bayanambi to capture Dharanikota (present-day Amaravati, the capital of Andhra Pradesh). After conquering the region, Bayanambi made Chebrolu his capital. Later, Chalukya Bheema, from the same lineage, built a temple for Lord Shiva in the 9th century, naming it Bheemeswara Swami Devalayam in his honor.


Side view of the temple. One can see the closed entrance to the inner steps.

      
It’s the temple’s architecture that truly baffles me. Unlike most temples, this one is two-storied. The lower portion is partly a solid stone structure, while the other half consists of two passageways leading to the temple’s inner sanctum on the upper level. There are two such passages on each side of the structure — one serving as an entryway and the other as an exit. Although the steps appear to be in good condition, the passages are now closed off with metal doors by the Archaeology Department for unknown reasons.

Today, devotees use metal steps installed in front of the temple to access the upper level. Upon entering the inner sanctum, you can still see the two openings of the original entrance and exit passages from the lower levels. Since these are no longer in use, they have been sealed with wooden doors.


The inner sanctum of the temple


Wooden door over the exit passageway.

         The main deity here is Lord Shiva in the form of a lingam. An incredible feature of this lingam is the presence of a Brahmasutra — a rare formation of lines that typically run from the base of the lingam to its middle. Finding a lingam with a Brahmasutra is extremely uncommon, and this temple has two of them. One serves as the main deity, while the other was discovered during the excavations I mentioned earlier. It is now placed slightly to the left in front of the temple.

The atmosphere of the temple was so peaceful that I lost track of time in the presence of Lord Shiva. Inside the temple, you can also find old idols of Ganesha, Parvati Devi, and other deities, adding to its divine charm.

        
Lord Shiva with Brahmasutra.

      The temple receives most of its devotees on Mondays, Purnima (Full Moon), Amavasya (New Moon), Maasa Sivaratri, Mahaa Sivaratri, and during the Kartika Maasam. On the day of my visit, I saw only a handful of devotees.

Despite its ancient history and stunning temples, this town remains relatively unknown to travelers outside the district. Several other centuries-old temples are located just a few meters away, including one dedicated to Lord Brahma.

So, I have a simple request — spread the word. I’ll be posting more blogs about the nearby temples, and I encourage you to share this place with your friends. Plan a trip and experience one of the most underrated temples you won't want to miss!


Nearby 'Chaturmukha Brahmalingeshwara Swami Temple' dedicated to lord Brahma, is located in a pond.

How to Reach:

    Chebrolu is a small town in the Guntur District of Andhra Pradesh. You can reach it by road or train.
  • By Bus: Frequent buses run to Guntur from nearby cities. From there, local buses to Chebrolu are available without any hassle.

  • By Train: While Chebrolu doesn't have its own railway station, both Guntur and Tenali stations are just 15 km away and well-connected by trains.

  • By Air: The nearest airport is Gannavaram in Krishna District. From Gannavaram, head to Vijayawada and then take local transport to reach Chebrolu.

Traveling here is simple and convenient. Save this spot for your next trip!

📍 Google Maps Location: Chebrolu on Google Maps


        On the day of my visit to the temple, I traveled through the rural parts of Andhra Pradesh, surrounded by endless paddy fields and lush greenery. As I cruised through the small villages and fields, I came across a small canal filled with lotuses. I picked two and offered one at this temple and the other at the Chaturmukha Brahmalingeshwara Swami Temple, dedicated to Lord Brahma.

Me, on the way to Chebrolu.

        This Brahma temple is one of only two temples dedicated to Lord Brahma, with the other located in Pushkar, Rajasthan. I'll share more details about that temple in my next blog. 

Other Places to see in the region:

1. Chaturmukha Brahmalingeshwara Swami Temple, Chebrolu.
2. Nageswara and Adikeshava Swami temples, Chebrolu
3. Ponnur Hanuman Temple
4. Uppalapadu Bird Sanctuary
5. In and around Vijayawada City(if time permits).
6. Cheerala Beach. 


        If you guys know Telugu and love to watch this place in a video format, subscribe to my YouTube channel here: 
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCBTVTLwBWmwVzReAzzHFcFw

Wishing you a happy and wonderful trip!

See you guys in the next blog.